Saturday 25th May - Kolsai Lakes

Today was to be our first proper walk. A trek from the first Kolsai lake up to the second. There is a third lake too and these were originally one, but because of earthquakes they have become naturally dammed. We were already at a height of 1800 metres and had a climb of around 500 metres to do, over a distance of 6 km, 12 km round trip.

The start of the trek was at a tourist centre and as schools and universities had finished the day before for the long summer break there were lots of families and young people around. There were various food and drink outlets, plus souvenirs and an opportunity to dress like a Kasakh nomad and have your photo taken with a hooded golden eagle. Much as these birds look magnificent there was something sad about seeing them trapped and unable to fly freely.

There were loads of horses around all saddled up ready to take the tourists out, and many young people who were there to take them or to guide a walk. Our local guide, Oljus, was just 15 years old! Of course nobody was wearing hard hats or hi viz jackets!

We started by walking down a long flight of wooden steps that took us to the lake shore, then followed the same wooden path for the first 100yards or so. Then it was onto the mountain path and into pine woodland. One of the first things that you noticed were the wild flowers. Over the course of the trek we probably saw upwards of 50 different flowers and plants that changed as you went higher up. Clematis, primula, iris, wild rose, poppy, alchemilla, hardy geranium and then so many that were unrecognisable in blues, pinks, whites, yellows, oranges, reds. It was beautiful.

The path was often wet after a night of rain. In places it was also shared with the horses that take the tourists on treks, so very churned up. It was rocky too in places and the path went up and down, so there was much more than the 500m climb. However we were walking near the river that flows between the lakes and you could hear it thundering over the rocks. Then there was the birdsong too so a delight to the senses.

The first half of the walk was challenging and although we have enjoyed the meals we have had they have been light on carbs so there was a point when food was needed but with our guide not stopping for breaks there was a short time of struggle trying to get food down and walk on rocky, muddy paths at the same time. Sweets in the pocket for a sugar kick come in useful!

The group had different levels of fitness and often were strung out along the track meaning the fitter ones were stopping and waiting for others to catch up. The weather had started out quite cloudy but it was not cold and the sun was breaking through, but standing waiting for too long meant you quickly chilled.

The second half of the walk was

more challenging as the route became steeper, and this strung the group out even more. The last 1.5km was the hardest and 2 of the group didn’t make it to the lake, which was beautiful.

By this time it was 2pm and we stopped here for 30 minutes for our lunch. The sun was out and it was a glorious setting to sit and take in the view.

Then it was the walk back. Some of the steep slopes were a bit challenging but thanks to the work I’ve put in at the gym and with the physio I am much more stable than I was. Still not as good or quick as I would like to be but there is a noticeable difference 😮‍💨 On the way we collected up 1 of the group who had been waiting for us. The other had left messages written on the path that she had returned!

The last 2km back was a real slog with some short but steep ascents and then all those wooden steps. Our driver was waiting for us with a bag of chocolates for which we were very grateful!

The walk was 14.5 miles! No wonder we were tired!!

We had decided with some of the other group members that we would share a bottle of wine tonight after such a tough day. Unfortunately the hotel only did a really expensive one or dessert wines 🤷‍♀️I stuck with the tea and Geoff decided to have a beer. With no coffee as well this is turning out to be an interesting trip!

Fortunately it was only a 10 minute drive back to the hotel and we were given a half hour to shower and change before dinner. It had been a much longer day than anticipated and meant we had little time to catch up with the world on the dodgy WiFi, let along sit and relax. The case had to be packed and ready to be loaded on the minibus at 8.30 in the morning. Some of the washing hadn’t fully dried and although I tried using the hair dryer to assist the process, basically it didn’t 🙄😂the joys of travelling!

Tomorrow we leave Kazakhstan and move to the Jyrgalan valley in Kyrgyzstan where again we will have no WiFi and the accommodation is likely to be basic.